I’m excited to be sharing a giveaway for by Ashley Rivas – and I’m even more excited to share an excerpt from the book here on Moogly! The Golden Hour Cardigan is a gorgeous design, the perfect basic for any wardrobe. Thank you so much to Ashley and Page Street Publishing! ♥
Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links. Reprinted with permission from Tunisian Crochet Tops by Ashley Rivas. Page Street Publishing Co. 2025. Photo credit: Stephanie Guerrero.
CLICK HERE to enter the giveaway to win your own copy of Tunisian Crochet Tops
CLICK HERE to purchase your own copy of Tunisian Crochet Tops
Please note that this pattern looks even better in the book! I’ve done my best to present it well here. 🙂
Golden Hour Cardigan
This textured cardigan will be one of the coziest you’ll ever make! Named after that magical time of day when the sun is setting and the light is golden, the cardigan itself is warm without sacrificing style. The design was slightly inspired by letterman’s jackets you might see at American football games, but instead of a contrast in color between the body and sleeves, this cardigan has a beautiful contrast in texture. This contrast is eye-catching yet easy to make, as the entire cardigan is created from five simple rectangular panels. It will soon be a classic for your cold-weather closet.
CONSTRUCTION
This cardigan is worked by crocheting five flat rectangles: two front panels, one back panel, and two sleeve panels. The panels are then sewn together, with ribbing added after assembly.
SKILL LEVEL
Easy
MATERIALS
Yarn:Â Worsted weight, Twill Worsted by WeCrochet (100% superwash merino wool), 149 yds (136 m) per 100-g skein
Yardage/Meterage
10 (10, 11, 12, 13) (14, 15, 16, 17) hanks of Twill Worsted or 1390 (1475, 1600, 1755, 1860) (2055, 2180, 2360, 2455) yds / 1275 (1350, 1465, 1605, 1700) (1870, 1995, 2160, 2245) m
Shown In Serpent Heather colorway
Note: Any worsted weight yarn can be used for this pattern as long as it matches gauge. For best results, wool or acrylic yarns are recommended.
Hooks
Note: Use hook sizes below or sizes needed to meet gauge.
Body: US L-11 (8 mm) Tunisian crochet hook with 10″ to 24″ (25 cm to 61 cm) cord
Sleeves: US L-11 (8 mm) Tunisian crochet hook with 10″ to 12″ (25 cm to 30 cm) cord
Ribbing: US I-9 (5.5 mm) crochet hook
Notions
Stitch markers (3 minimum)
Scissors
Tapestry needle
3 buttons, 1″ (2.5 cm) in diameter
SIZING
XS (S, M, L, XL) (2XL, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Schematic
ABBREVIATIONS
BLO: back loop only
ch: chain
LTS: last Tunisian stitch
RetP: Return Pass
sc: single crochet
sk: skip
sl st: slip stitch
st(s): stitch(es)
TKS: Tunisian knit stitch
TSS: Tunisian simple stitch
yoSS: yarn over slip stitch, see Special Techniques
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
Yarn over slip stitch (yoSS) – Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, and pull loop through both loops on hook as though making a slip stitch.
GAUGE
Body: 13 sts x 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Tunisian knit stitch (blocked)
Sleeves: 16 sts x 11 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in Tunisian alternate crossed stitch (blocked)
Ribbing: 13 sts = 4 inches (10 cm) (stretched)
To make gauge swatches, follow patterns below for the body and sleeves (see Abbreviations, Special Techniques, and Pattern Notes sections before continuing):
Body: With Body Tunisian crochet hook, ch 19.
Row 1 (starting row): working in the back bump of each ch, pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, RetP. [19 sts]
Row 2: TKS across to last st, LTS, RetP. [19 sts]
Repeat Row 2 until you have 20 rows or can adequately measure gauge.
Measure a 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) square in the middle of your swatch to determine gauge.
Sleeves: With Sleeves Tunisian crochet hook, ch 23.
Row 1 (starting row): working in the back bump of each ch, pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, RetP. [23 sts]
Work Rows 2–3 of the Sleeve Panel instructions.
Repeat Rows 2– 3 until you have 16 rows or can adequately measure gauge.
Measure a 4″ x 4″ (10 cm x 10 cm) square in the middle of your swatch to determine gauge.
Golden Hour Cardigan Pattern Instructions
PATTERN NOTES
Check stitch count by counting loops on hook before the Return Pass.
When working the ribbing, ch 1 does not count as a st.
FRONT PANEL (MAKE 2)
With Body Tunisian crochet hook, ch 28 (31, 34, 37, 40) (44, 47, 50, 53).
Row 1 (starting row): Working in the back bumps of the starting ch, pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, RetP. [28 (31, 34, 37, 40) (44, 47, 50, 53) sts]
Rows 2–65 (65, 65, 67, 67) (73, 73, 79, 79): TKS across to last st, LTS, RetP. [28 (31, 34, 37, 40) (44, 47, 50, 53) sts]
Customization Note–Length: To adjust the length of your cardigan, add/subtract 4 rows for every 1″ (2.5 cm) added/subtracted. Write down how many rows were added/subtracted so that you can adjust both front panels and the back panel. Keep in mind that the crochet ribbing will add 2″ (5 cm) to the final length of the garment.
Row 66 (66, 66, 68, 68) (74, 74, 80, 80): TKS bind off.
Fasten off, leaving a long tail approximately 3x the panel width for seaming.
BACK PANEL (MAKE 1)
With Body Tunisian crochet hook, ch 63 (70, 76, 82, 89) (96, 102, 108, 115)
Row 1 (starting row): working in the back bumps of the starting ch, pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, RetP. [63 (70, 76, 82, 89) (96, 102, 108, 115) sts]
Rows 2–65 (65, 65, 67, 67) (73, 73, 79, 79): TKS across to last st, LTS, RetP. [63 (70, 76, 82, 89) (96, 102, 108, 115) sts]
Customization Note–Length: If you added/ subtracted rows to the front panels, add/ subtract the same number of rows to the back panel.
Row 66 (66, 66, 68, 68) (74, 74, 80, 80): TKS bind off.
Fasten off.
SLEEVE PANEL (MAKE 2)
With Sleeves Tunisian crochet hook, ch 55 (55, 59, 63, 69) (77, 83, 89, 89).
Row 1 (starting row): working in the back bumps of the starting ch, pull up a loop in 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, RetP. [55 (55, 59, 63, 69) (77, 83, 89, 89) sts]
Customization Note–Sleeve Circumference: Add or remove 4 sts for every 1″ (2.5 cm) added/subtracted from the overall circumference of the sleeve. Your st count should be an odd number. Write down the st count so that you can adjust both sleeves.
Row 2: TSS in first st, *sk next st, TSS, TSS in skipped st, (see photos on next page) repeat from * across to last st, LTS, RetP. [55 (55, 59, 63, 69) (77, 83, 89, 89) sts]
Row 3: sk first st, TSS, TSS in skipped st, *sk next st, TSS, TSS in skipped st, repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, TSS, LTS, RetP. [55 (55, 59, 63, 69) (77, 83, 89, 89) sts]
Rows 4–40 (40, 40, 40, 38) (38, 36, 36, 36): repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat. [55 (55, 59, 63, 69) (77, 83, 89, 89) sts]
Customization Note–Sleeve Length: Add/ subtract 1 repeat of Rows 2 and 3 for every 0.7″ (2 cm) added/subtracted (end on a Row 2 repeat). Write down your row count so that you can crochet the same number of rows for both sleeves. Keep in mind that the crochet ribbing will add 2″ (5 cm) to the final length of the sleeve.
Row 41 (41, 41, 41, 39) (39, 37, 37, 37): special bind off (sk first st, work TSS bind off in next st, work TSS bind off in skipped st, *sk next st, work TSS bind off in next st, work TSS bind off in
skipped st, repeat until 2 st remain, work TSS bind off, start a LTS in the last st and pull loop through loop on hook) ( see photo directly above).
Fasten off, leaving a long tail approximately 3x the panel width for seaming.
ASSEMBLY
Wet block panels (or use blocking method best suited for your yarn of choice) to dimensions provided in size chart prior to seaming.
Once blocked, lay the front panels over the back panel, right sides facing each other. The front panels should align with the sides of the back panel so that there are a few inches separating the front panels (see Figure 1).
Using a tapestry needle and the yarn tails left over, sew the top of each front panel to the top of the back panel with the seaming method of your choice (the mattress st was used in the sample).
Now lay the body panels flat with the right side facing up. Lay a sleeve panel down, right side up, so that the center of the top of the sleeve aligns with the shoulder seam of your panels (see Figure 2). Place st markers in your front and back panels to mark the start and end of seaming. Sew your sleeve to the front and back panels using the seaming method of your choice (the flat sl st method with the ribbing crochet hook was used in my sample). Repeat with the opposite sleeve.
Now fold the cardigan in half at the shoulder seams. Using the flat sl st method or the method of your choice, sew the sides of the cardigan and the underside of the sleeve together on each side (see Figure 3).
Fit Checkpoint: Try on your cardigan now to check the fit. Keep in mind the ribbing will add 2″ (5 cm) to the sleeve cuffs and the bottom of cardigan, and about 1.5″ (4 cm) to the cardigan circumference.
FINISHING–SLEEVE RIBBING
Use Ribbing crochet hook (or a hook size that meets the ribbing gauge) for all of the ribbing sections. Ribbing is added to the garment with the right side facing out.
Setup: attach yarn at end of one sleeve near seam, ch 1, sc in first st, *sk st, sc in next st, repeat from * around cuff, sl st to first st, ch 9.
Ribbing Row 1: yoSS in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sl st in next 2 sts at cuff. [8 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 2: turn, sk the 2 sl st, yoSS BLO across to last st, yoSS in last st. [8 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 3: ch 1 and turn, yoSS BLO across, sl st in next 2 sts at cuff. [8 yoSS]
Repeat Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 until you reach Ribbing Row 1. Join using your method of choice (the flat sl st method was used in this sample).
FINISHING–BOTTOM RIBBING
Setup: attach yarn at bottom corner of one of the front panels, ch 9.
Ribbing Row 1: yoSS in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sl st in next 2 sts along bottom of garment. [8 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 2: turn, sk the 2 sl st along bottom, yoSS BLO across. [8 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 3: ch 1 and turn, yoSSBLO across, sl st in next 2 sts along bottom of garment. [8 yoSS]
Repeat Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 until you’ve worked around bottom of entire garment. At the end of the last row, sl st once into bottom corner of opposite front panel. Fasten off.
FINISHING–CENTER RIBBING
Before starting, use st markers to mark where you’d like the 3 buttons to go on the side of the right front panel (panel on the left when looking at garment). For the sample, buttons were placed at 9″ (23 cm) from the top of the garment, in the center of the bottom ribbing, and then halfway between those two marks.
Setup: attach yarn at the bottom corner of the left front panel when looking at the cardigan (right front panel when worn), or whichever side will allow you to work along the panel edge from bottom to top with the right side facing up, ch 7.
Ribbing Row 1: yoSS in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, sl st in next 2 row ends along the side of your work. [6 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 2: turn, sk the 2 sl st along side of work, yoSS BLO across. [6 yoSS]
Ribbing Row 3: ch 1 and turn, yoSS BLO across, sl st in next 2 row ends along the side of your work. [6 yoSS]
Repeat Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 until you reach the first st marker.
Buttonhole Row 1: sl st into the marked space, then when working back up your ribbing, yoSS
BLO, sk 3, ch 3, yoSS BLO, yoSS in last st. [3 yoSS, 3 ch]
Buttonhole Row 2: ch 1 and turn, yoSS BLO in each st or ch across to garment, sl st into next 2 st along the side of your work, turn. [6 yoSS]
For the remainder of the ribbing, repeat Ribbing Rows 2 and 3 unless you are at a marked st for a buttonhole, in which you would repeat Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2 (for 3 total buttons).
Fasten off.
Sew buttons onto the ribbing along the right front panel (left when worn) to match buttonhole locations. Weave in all your ends.
The Fine Print
Reprinted with permission from Tunisian Crochet Tops by Ashley Rivas. Page Street Publishing Co. 2025. Photo credit: Stephanie Guerrero. Prefer a paper copy? Get the book – linked above!
